I may be among the few who didn’t get pulled into the Downton Abbey phenomenon. I missed all six seasons of the television series, plus two follow-up feature films. But that didn’t stop me when my besties, who had been eagerly awaiting the final movie, included me in their plans for a Baxter Avenue Theater matinee for the third and final film, Downton Abbey: The Grand Finale. I found the indulgent lifestyle of the “upstairs” families and the work and loyalty of the “downstairs” families to be delightful. The history, attire, and architecture were stunning.
It turns out that the Old Louisville neighborhood of St. James Court has its own example of a grand and lavish home (and stories of the families who inhabited it) in the Conrad-Caldwell House Museum, constructed in 1895. Opulent and ornate, this 10,000-square-foot mansion, with its towers and Bedford limestone facade, earned the nickname of Caldwell’s Castle back in the day.
Luxurious mansions were constructed on nearby Third Street, which became known as Millionaire’s Row. Never intended as a permanent structure, the site was torn down upon completion of the exhibition in 1889. The Victoria Land Company seized the opportunity to continue the construction of homes on the now empty land, creating St. James Court. This area is now the 3rd largest historic district in the country and the largest preservation district featuring Victorian architecture.
Here are five places I stopped by in or near Old Louisville, that you might want to try.
1. You can take a tour of the Conrad-Caldwell home, which is now a museum reflecting the furnishings and decor as it looked in 1908. Some pieces are original while others are replicas authentic to the time period during which the families lived in the home. It is open to the public for both self-guided and docent-led tours. Beginning in the downstairs parlor, up the grand staircase, through the library, the sitting room, the family bedrooms, office, billiard room, dining room, and more, visitors are treated to observing the great indulgences of families who lived and entertained during the Gilded Age.
The home was built on a tract of what had been the 45-acre site of the Louisville Southern Exposition, a series of world’s fairs held between 1883 to 1887 in what is now Old Louisville. (A highlight of the fairs was the largest to-date installation of incandescent light bulbs, which had recently been invented by Thomas Edison, who happened to be a resident of Louisville 16 years prior.)
The Conrad-Caldwell House Museum conradcaldwell.org is located at 1402 St. James Court and is open Thursday-Sunday with docent-led tours at 11am and 3pm and self-guided tours from 12:30 – 2:30. Check the website for changes in schedules and special events. The museum is also frequently booked as a wedding venue, is a landmark on guided walking tours of Old Louisville, and is of course a cornerstone of the St. James Art Fair held in October each year.
2. If a tour of the Conrad-Caldwell House Museum leaves you wanting more, local author David Dominé daviddomine.com offers The Glitterball Walking Tour through Old Louisville with entertaining tales of local lore and intrigue. The Old Louisville Visitors Center (oldlouisville.org) also offers guided walking tours and seasonal events.
3. Take a break for some decadent desserts and tasty beverages at the nearby Nook and Nowhere (nookandnowhere.com) at 1149 Shelby Street. This bookstore/bar/cafe offers drink menus of coffees, wines and cocktails, along with daily assorted pastries and treats from Wiltshire Bakery and a small hot food menu sourced daily from local eateries.
4. A stop at Phalcha Coffee at 1001 Mary Street invites patrons to unwind and indulge in the fresh aromas of its freshly roasted beans. Phalcha Coffee offers a variety of unique drinks including the popular iced coffee flight consisting of mocha, butterscotch, ube, and strawberry rose. Phalcha also offers pastries, waffles, bagels and sandwiches.
5. Buck’s Restaurant and Bar (buckslou.com) is located in the heart of Old Louisville in the historic Mayflower Building at 425 W. Ormsby. With an attractive Art Deco vibe and beautiful bar with huge vases full of white flowers, Buck’s offers a dessert menu that is sure to delight, as well as serving lunch from 11-2 and dinner from 5-10. Ladies are given a lovely Star of David flower as they leave.
Story and photos by Patti Hartog
P.S. You may also enjoy Spend A Saturday Exploring Frankfort, Ky.
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